In the southern part of the Velebit, between the highest mountains of the mighty massif and the roar of the Adriatic waves, lies the magical world of Paklenica. Here, where water and the ravages of time have eaten deep into the karst rock, spectacular rock faces drop steeply for hundreds of meters, narrow valleys, high valleys and deep, dense black pine forests offer refuge from the dangers of modern life and the stress of everyday life. Two mighty gorges, which can also be seen from the sea, form the heart of the national park founded in 1949, which has been under UNESCO protection as part of the Velebit since 1978.
The famous Velika Paklenica is easily accessible on foot from the main entrance in Starigrad – even for people with physical disabilities. If you leave the entrance with various parking spaces and the Paklenica mill behind you, after around 2 kilometers you reach the gorge, which is only 50 meters wide at its narrowest point. The rock walls here rise vertically to lofty heights – some are more than 700 meters high. From here the main path leads on to geomorphological features such as the Manita pec cave, the only officially accessible karst cave in the national park with magical stalagmites, stalactites, stalactite columns and numerous rare animal species. Slightly less well known (and therefore less frequented) is the second gorge, Mala Paklenica, which is best accessed from the side entrance in Seline. Between the two gorges, deep forests and hidden caves, karst areas and high peaks invite you to explore and marvel.
The park can be reached from Zagreb and the Dalmatian cities of Split, Sibenik and Zadar via the Zagreb-Split motorway, from the Kvarner Bay via the winding coastal road or the motorway towards Dalmatia. The park is generally accessible all year round. Park entry is comparatively cheap at 50 kuna per day for an adult in high season. Even cheaper are tickets for climbers for 3 or 5 days or the annual pass, which costs 500 kuna. Discounts apply not only to children, but also to students up to 25 years of age. Not included in the entrance price are guided tours, which start at 400 kuna, and entry to the Manitas pec cave, which costs an additional 10 kuna (as of 2014).
Nature and Culture in Paklenica National Park
Although the national park has its own magic in all seasons, the summer months between June and September are considered the peak season. No wonder, as it is the perfect place to combine water sports on the nearby beach with an active holiday in the mountains. Shy and rare animal species such as brown bears and lynxes, short-toed eagles and griffon vultures are naturally rarely seen during this time, and the poisonous horned vipers and adders also quickly flee when faced with a horde of tourists wearing heavy hiking boots.
Nevertheless, it is worth packing binoculars and a camera in your luggage: the park is home to more than 200 species of birds, numerous insects and cave dwellers such as bats and cave invertebrates that are worth discovering. The natural diversity and wild beauty of the region is rivaled by man-made structures such as the Paklenica Mill, 10 abandoned villages in traditional architectural style and the Sklopina – houses that were built half in a cave to better withstand wind and weather. In addition to information boards along the paths, the education center at the main entrance provides information about the park’s special features. A whole series of Winnetou films were shot in and around the Paklenica National Park. The filming locations can still be admired today on signposted paths. In nearby Starigrad, a Winnetou museum brings back childhood memories.
Leisure activities in Paklenica National Park
The true beauty of the national park, its iconic rocks such as Anica Kuk, its almost inaccessible mountain ranges and wild, romantic landscapes are best explored on a hike. Over 200 km of marked nature trails and hiking paths leave you spoilt for choice. The most popular is the Velika Paklenica nature trail, which leads from the gorge of the same name to the mountain hut, which is happy to provide hikers with refreshments.
The Paklaric nature trail is also particularly recommended, as it leads to the remains of the fortress of the same name – and from there offers a magnificent view of the park. But it’s not just hikers who get their money’s worth here on tours of varying difficulty, lasting between 2 and 6 hours – the park is also known beyond Croatia’s borders as a climbing paradise. Around 400 routes with difficulty levels 3 to 8b+ invite climbers from all over the world to conquer the often vertical rock faces – also as part of climbing events in high season. While short sports routes can be found mainly in Klanci, the Anica Kuk, among others, offers routes up to 350 meters long with a variety of difficulty levels. By the way: In July and August, as well as on long weekends around public holidays, a security service is responsible for the safety of the climbers. All visitors can stay overnight either in the mountain huts and shelters or on the campsite next to the park administration building. Attention: Wild camping is not permitted for safety reasons!
