Where the promenade ends at Gradac, where grilled eel makes your mouth water and the coastal mountains frame the mostly pebble bays with crystal-clear water, that is where southern Dalmatia begins. The southernmost region of Croatia corresponds roughly to the Dubrovnik-Neretva County and is divided into two parts by the Neum Corridor, which belongs to Bosnia and Herzegovina. The region owes this unusual division to an eventful history that was shaped by occupations by a wide variety of peoples, from the Romans to the Ottomans and Venetians to the Habsburgs, but also by immigration and aspirations for independence.
The fact that Dubrovnik is so isolated from the rest of southern Dalmatia is easily explained by the city’s unique history, which was autonomous for a long time as the Republic of Ragusa, for example, and secured its special status over the centuries through cooperation with the respective rulers. It is hardly surprising that the southern coast of Croatia was so popular with conquerors from all directions: fertile vineyards and lush sheep pastures still promise exceptional culinary delights, dreamy bays and hidden beaches invite you to relax and unwind, historic buildings and charming villages and towns invite you to discover and marvel. It is the wonderful combination of rough coastal areas and lovely hinterland, mountains and sea, high culture and simple country life that makes southern Dalmatia a very special place to this day.
Nature and Culture Along the Neretva
The Neretva Valley is a rather unusual area for a coast dominated by mountain ranges, and it is precisely for this reason that it invites you to marvel and fall in love. The Neretva rises in the border area between Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro, squeezes through narrow valleys and gorges, widens in places and finally forms a delta on Croatian soil after a long lower course that irrigates wide, fertile plains. It is no wonder that the Neretva Delta is considered Croatia’s fruit basket: in the mild climate, numerous types of fruit and vegetables such as citrus fruits thrive along the idyllic river course, and these can be found in local markets as well as in the region’s supermarkets and restaurants. In summer, between tending the plants and harvesting, there is time for entertainment and for maintaining old and new traditions. The Boat Marathon (Maraton lada), which has been held every year since the late 1990s on the second Saturday in August, is unforgettable and definitely worth a visit. In Metkovic, a wide variety of teams compete against each other in paddle boats of all sizes and shapes. The finish line of the marathon is Ploce, around 22 kilometers away, at the mouth of the Neretva.
Ploce itself is also the venue for a boat race every year, the Utrka trupa. The town itself, with its imposing church and promenade lined with palm trees and cafes, the large harbor and its untouched hinterland, is still considered a tourist insider tip. The lakes very close to the town are a popular destination: Lake Birina practically borders the city area, and the Bacina Lakes form an idyllic lake district not far from Ploce, framed by forests and mountains. The lakes, which are up to 34 meters deep and partly connected to each other, offer visitors and residents alike refreshment and relaxation on hot summer days. Incidentally, if you follow the Neretva inland from Ploce, you can quickly reach Mostar in Herzegovina. The old town, which is well worth seeing, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the “Old Bridge” that spans the Neretva.
Not far from Dubrovnik and definitely worth a visit is the magical Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. The bay winds along steep flanks like a fjord and is particularly popular with sailors, as the deeply indented bays offer wonderful protection from treacherous winds. Given the special topography, it is hardly surprising that places like Herceg Novi are terraced. The seaside resort with its lovely, lovingly restored old town is known above all for its slightly radioactive healing mud. The trading and port town of Kotor, idyllically situated on a deeply indented natural harbor, also just a stone’s throw from Dubrovnik, is a UNESCO World Natural and Cultural Heritage Site with its unique location and fantastic buildings such as the 2,000-year-old city wall and the beautiful St. Tryphon Cathedral.
Dubrovnik: South Dalmatia’s Thriving Pearl
The undisputed centre of southern Dalmatia is Dubrovnik, the pearl of the Adriatic. Where today the jet set and high society bob around on their yachts and cruise tourists stroll through the UNESCO-protected old town, there was once fierce resistance against all occupiers. An impressive testimony to this defensive mentality is the grandiose city wall that surrounds the entire old town in a ring, which is completely accessible and offers a wonderful insight into the city’s eventful history. Some of the fortress towers offer fantastic views of the port city with the main promenade Stradun and the Prince’s Palace, the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary and several very well-preserved palaces.
An even better view is offered from the 412-meter-high local mountain Srd, which is accessible by a modern panoramic cable car. From here you can also see the impressive Fort Lovrijenac and the island of Lokrum, which lies off the coast of Dubrovnik. The little island is around 15 minutes from Dubrovnik and is an oasis of peace and relaxation. Subtropical vegetation flatters the senses and everyday life is a long way away when you take a weightless dip in the salt lake. By the way: Not far from Dubrovnik there is another, much less crowded town that is definitely worth a trip. Cavtat enchants with idyllic pebble and sand beaches, small bathing bays as well as Roman and Venetian buildings that tell of times long past. The former Greek settlement is now a popular marina and seaside resort, just a stone’s throw from the “Athens of the Adriatic”.
Peljesac: Vineyards, Beach, and Historical Walls
The Peljesac peninsula is a stark contrast to cruise tourism and the jet set, beach life and the rich historical heritage of ancient cities. The country’s second largest peninsula is more agricultural and is known for one thing above all: excellent wines, the product of a long wine-growing tradition and a passion for the good things in life. If you’ve always wanted to know where such fine wines as Dingac or Postup come from, take a trip to the winemakers of Peljesac. But be careful, wine tasting in the summer heat is not suitable for everyone! If you prefer to indulge in the good life on the beach, you’ll find some of the popular and far too rare sandy beaches in Orebic.
Fancy a bit of sightseeing? In Ston, curious visitors can find the longest preserved defensive wall in Europe. A visit to the pretty little town can be wonderfully celebrated with oysters grown here (and a good glass of wine). Once you’re refreshed, you can continue on to the salt marshes of Ston – the white gold has a very special charm in a region otherwise dominated by vineyards.
The Pure Holiday Experience: The Island World of South Dalmatia
Southern Dalmatia is more than just Dubrovnik and wine, and is a fascinating witness to ancient cultures. The region is blessed with more beautiful islands than almost any other, and it is not without reason that they are so popular with beach holidaymakers, nature lovers and sailors. The Elaphite Islands, for example, lie between Dubrovnik and Peljesac, but form an idyllic world of their own. Since they have not yet been discovered by mass tourism, the small islands with their fine sandy beaches, pretty little villages and romantic harbors have largely retained their original charm.
Mljet, one of the most heavily forested islands in the Mediterranean, is also still in its original state and is part of the national park of the same name. The endangered Mediterranean monk seal, among others, has found a safe home here.
Korcula, an island in the southern Adriatic covered in pine forests, is a little livelier. The island is not only known for the Moreska, the traditional sabre dance, but also for the medieval beauty of the old town of Korcula (town), the subtropical, lush vegetation of the island, idyllic bays such as Pupnat and the popular sandy beach Przina in Lumbarda.
South of Korcula lies Lastovo, a predominantly mountainous island that belongs to the nature park of the same name. Sailors in particular appreciate the wonderful bays in the west of the island. Lastovo is popular with astronomers because of its low level of air pollution: the dark night sky offers fantastic opportunities for astronomical observations – even from the beach, where the light of the Milky Way is reflected supernaturally beautifully in the dark waters of the sea.
